There's a surfer's quote 'Feelings are like waves. you can't stop them coming, you can only choose which ones to surf...'
Personally, starting the New Year in a state of broke with five euros to my name. Waiting for money to come in, and in the meantime any plans I may have for the future are on hold. Proper on hold, waiting for the eternal dirty dollar. Stuck and frustrated, my head is in a place I don't wanna be, my back against the wall, the kicking Ninja of internal strife, is behaving like a horse that's difficult to hold Situation well tricky, which is why Woozy thought a day's surfing would do me good...
And just may be I, woman with camera, might capture him 'Woozy in a moment of surfing glory?'
So leaving Athens with him and George, I slept in the car to Peloponnese, duly fell into some hotel bed sometime in the early hours, only to wake up with Woozy standing over me announcing 'It's 5.30 am, come on surfs up!' For someone who is presently struggling to get out of bed for any reason beyond coffee and a joint; any shared enthusiasm took a moment. My attitude is so messed up at the moment...
Still, against the Bob & No Hope in my present 'English Refugee seeking Asylum (somewhere) Status'. The prospect of taking photos 'of a surfs up gathering' for the first good Greek waves of 2018, didn't look too rough in the morning light.
While today, I now know a few surfers; my respect, my understanding of what it is to surf has only been born since I got a decent zoom-lens. Albeit I remain not brilliant at it, only lucky occassionally, but as a sport 'Photographing Surfers' I'd conclude is not disimilar to a game of Pinball eg. pressing a button and not really moving very much. Yet holding the camera, my nose squashed against it, my closed right eye weeping in the concentration of it all. Just watching, holding focus on the bobbing bodies waiting on their boards for the break. Without doubt surfing is like life, a lot of bobbing about, waiting for a few fleeting moments of absolute exuberance.
Its a beautiful sport.
Yet this respect for surfer's is more than that; Nature is a beautiful yet untameable woman, we know not what she will do next. Not a quiet day on the beach, yesterday's waves were big, loud and ressonating powerfully as they hammered down on the beach. It's all alright behind a camera, I ain't gonna get one of those breaking on my head, or dragging me onto the rocks.
Certainly man is very small to a vast ocean. It's Jaunuary; the waters frigging freezing. Yet there are no pretenders in the Pelponnese; travelling miles to catch a wave; this is a passion. A calling, as if surfing fills souls, like somewhere in that curl the world becomes infinite, the mundane, the tedious and minutiae 'it disappears' there is only riding that wave.
An experience 'Free of mental torment.'
Yet hey what do I know, I've never been on a board in my life?
Yet while its a fluke getting a single good picture, and while I can wish my zoom would zoom even more. As creative therapy, I did forget about all the tedious mundane bollox haunting me. For a few hours, time disappeared, for a moment all was infinite again.
In that alternative universe, where money doesn't matter...
Anyway, this man! With no idea who he is, but his talent is extraordinary. From the shore line it's not so easy knowing who you are photographing. It was busy yesterday, but coming back to Athens going through my photo's, he stands out. The Master, seemingly riding more waves than any other. If its true that the best photos are those that look like paintings? Then as a photographer not a surfer, the above is perhaps the best photo of the day...
Or maybe this one?
Again the same character? Towards the end of the day, while I missed what happened, my camera focussed somewhere else, but this King of Surfing-Chic was carried onto the rocks right in front of me. Ouch. These moments of extreme sport, those seconds lived between survive or die??? None of us know when times up.
Yet as he pulled himself out of the water, all I saw was his physique.
Honestly 'Photographing Surfers' is a beautiful sport.
As was my day, paddling in the Peloponnese...
So this was my day in the Peloponnese, albeit the only action shot of Woozy I managed to get was this...
Tags: Surfing, Greece, Peloponnese,